I have gotten a LOT of questions from friends online and off about what to use for skincare/breakouts since they don’t have the cash for pricey products or facials. Times are tight (trust me I KNOW!) and people dont have the cash to spend on things that are “extra” That being said, skin/image is important to a lot of people and feeling like you don’t look your best is an awful feeling! While I do push everyone to get a facial if they can…I know that isn’t feasible for a lot of people.
So because I am lame and am staying home on a Saturday night in my jammies with nothing to do…I am writing “Gen’s Guide to Better Breakout-free Skin” Feel free to comment with your own questions, ideas…and to all my esthetic pals who are reading, PLEASE jump in!!!!!

1. First things first…everyone breaks out. Its normal, it can be something that happens monthly (hint hint), and it really doesn’t matter what kind of skin you have. Every esthetician I know (who probably does more for her skin than any celebrity) will still roll into work with a big red bump on their chin from time to time. Do we cleanse, exfoliate,tone, mask, moisturize etc…YES but the human body is imperfect and a thousand things can collide at once to create a “pimple” And yes for the record, I breakout. If I am stressed, just waxed my eyebrows, am about to get my cycle, or fall asleep without washing my face (SACRILEGE) I will breakout. I dont get a lot but a couple that are enough to make me bitch and moan until they go away.
2. A breakout does NOT mean you have acne. Thanks to Pro-activ, Neutrogena, Clearasil and a lot of other companies…breakouts have become synonymous for ACNE! If you have one you must have another! A few red painful breakouts on your chin or some blackheads on your nose do not mean you need to buy everything with the word ACNE on it or spend 40+ dollars on a Pro-activ kit just because it promises beautiful skin.Im guessing you are now wondering…well WHAT is acne then?
3. This to me is TRUE TRUE acne. Ignore Grade III and IV…. anyone who has that kind of skin needs to skip the day spa and run straight to the dermatologist. I know the pictures are severe looking but so often do we get so wrapped up in our skincare woes that we forget what its like to have TRULY painful awful skin. Believe me when I say that even touching skin like this breaks my heart. There is no makeup that will cover skin like this and it is angry/red/hard and really messes with people’s self esteem. For more in depth reading about the stages go HERE

Even if you dont fit into the scale above, having skin riddled with whiteheads, blackheads, clogged pores or the ever-favorite “big red zit” (called a papule) can be annoying and sucky! So let me get off my soapbox and lets discuss skincare choices!

• CLEANSE! Whenever a client asks me, well what should I buy…the first thing out of my mouth is CLEANSER. You can’t get clean glowing skin without cleaning it and a plain old soap is a no-no. It strips your face of a needed protective barrier made up of sweat and oil (think of oil like the monosaturated fats we eat… a little in our diets is a good thing and a little oil on your skin is a good thing too!) If you are dealing with minor breakouts or even grade 1 or grade 2 acne, get a good foamy cleanser! My favorites are Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel, Aveda Outer Peace Foaming Cleanser (better for truly oilier skin individuals as it can dry you out) Emminence Stone Crop Gel, Pevonia Phyto-Gel Cleanser, and Image Skincare Total Facial Cleanser (again can be drying as it has glycolic acid in it), but since I know people will also want cheaper ideas, you can also try Aveeno Clear Complexion Foaming Cleanser, befine Gentle Cleanser, and the ever-popular Cetaphil. Just remember in a lot of cases you get what you pay for.

• EXFOLIATE! I do not think there is a facial where I do not babble for at least 5 minutes about exfoliating and how crucial it is. And just so we are clear…go throw that damn st. ives away RIGHT NOW! Yes you heard me. That stuff is wayyyy too harsh for your face and filled with teeny tiny little nuts with sharp edges that are ready to cut you up. Not the best choice if your skin is already inflamed with breakouts. I generally encourage people to just stay away from any and all “physical exfoliants”. People seem to get the idea in their head that they can “scrub” the acne away and since those exfoliants are the roughest out there…the outcome usually is not the best. Stick to enzymatic and chemical exfoliants!!! They are gentler on the skin but still loosen the dead skin on the surface of your face. Look for products with papain/bromelaine (enzymes from papya and pineapple). My favorites are Murad Exfoliating Enzyme Mask, Pevonia Enzyme Peeling Creme, and Alba Papaya Enzyme Facial Mask. If you want to kick it up a notch look for pads or liquid exfoliants with salicylic acid, glycolic acid, and lactic acid which are a little more aggressive (but also may be more drying if over-used) I loooove Dermalogica’s Daily Resurfacer and Aveda offers a gentle liquid Exfoliant you can swipe on like a toner as well as Outer Peace Acne pads which offer a small dose of SA you can use once a day (or twice depending on oil production). If you absolutely MUST use a scrub, use one with micro beads that are perfectly spherical and have no sharp edges. Follow the products instructions and dont over-use it thinking that if you strip your skin your breakouts will go away. This will bite you in the butt!!!

• MOISTURIZE!!! I dont care how oily you are or how much acne you have (or think you have), you need to moisturize. You cant be using exoliating products to help loosen up those clogged pores and not give your skin some moisture back in the process. Find a light oil-free moisturizer (with a SPF preferably since your skin will be more sun sensitive) I ADORE Aveda Outer Peace Oil Free Moisturizer and use it on any client who comes in complaining that they have breakouts. I also REALLLLLY like Murad’s Energizing Pemegranate Moisturizer SPF 15 (its my daily moisturizer) Dermalogica Active Moist (my nighttime moisturizer).

Those to me are the three most important products to first focus on if your skin is driving you crazy.
IF you have all of that covered and are still having issues…try adding these to your routine.

• TONER: I have mixed feelings on toner. When I first began skin school, I worked with two lines (Dermalogica & Murad) who both used toner. THEN when I began my masters program, I started working with IMAGE, a line that does not use toner because all of the cleansers are pH balanced and they feel like it isnt needed. Working in a spa after my masters, I had to figure out how I felt about it since by and large most lines do feel they are necessary. The purpose of toner to me is this: balancing the pH of the skin after cleansing (Our skin is fairly acidic and some cheaper cleansers are more alkaline than what our skin needs. The toner balances that out. Some toners also help to control oil production  and some can help add in more moisture. I use Dermalogica Multi-Active to simply hydrate my skin (I tend to be dehydrated ALL the time and if I use foamier cleansers after running, my skin just feels TIGHT. The toner makes a HUGE difference) I have in the past also used Murad Clarifying toner for an after-workout toner. If you are producing a lot of oil, GET A TONER! It will help. If your skin feels MEGA-TIGHT after cleansing, get a toner!!!! Just whatever you do…do not put ANY TONER that has alcohol in it. Its going to strip your skin like crazy! No bueno.

• SPOT TREATMENT: To me it seems like a no-brainer, you get a breakout…put spot treatment on it BUT you would be amazed at how people skip this step! If you get a mammoth breakout on your chin, get some. My most favorite spot treatment is Image Medicated Acne Lotion. Its got the skillz to pay the billz…3% Salicylic Acid and 5% Benzoyl Peroxide. Its no joke. If I get something that even feels like a pimple, its going on there. Unfortunately Image is only available through spas that carry it, so finding it may be difficult. Therefore the key to spot treatments (since pretty much all are one or the other) is figuring out if Salicylic Acid or Benzoyl Peroxide works better for you. Salicylic Acid is awesome for oilier skin as it is attracted to oil. Its also a great keratlitic which is often needed for acne-pronc skin. Benzoyl Peroxide on the other hand while still a great “peeling agent” also has anti-septic abilities as the peroxide releases oxygen into the pores and acne bacteria cannot survive that. The issue with BP can be VERY drying and if used continuously (COUGH pro-active COUGH), your body gets used to it. I have had several teen clients who have been pre-scribed COUNTLESS benzoyl peroxide products from a dermatologist and still not seen any difference…the issue is they have become resistant to it. Once I put them on a salicyclic based routine…the acne dries right up.If you are sensitive skinned, have a lot of blackheads, or really produce a lot of oil, go with the salicylic. If you have a lot of white heads/papules and aren’t as sensitive, try the benzoyl peroxide. Some people cant handle either and may need to go an alternate route like sulfur, tea tree oil or lavender oil. Sonya Dakar’s drying potion is SO popular and is simply a mix of sulfur, tea tree, and lavender. Its also GREAT for pregnant ladies who cannot use SA or BP on their skin. The key is don’t just let that breakout sit there and fester….dry it up!
• A Facial Brush: During a facial I will usually do a pre-cleanse (for heavy makeup/getting a client used to my hands), a cleanse, andddd sometimes a cleanse with a mechanical brush. THEY LOVE IT! So when I received a coupon in the mail for 100$ off the infamous Clarisonic Mia brush (because I am an esthetician), I jumped at the chance. I loooooove mine. Its a great tool to have. It stays on for a minute which encourages you to actually cleanse longer and more precisely. My skin is SO smooth after using it. I will be honest I still get breakouts from time to time but by and large, I feel like my skin looks better and is definitely cleaner with it. I like the Mia better because it’s better for traveling and not as bulky. I have the sensitive skin head and am pleased with the texture. I definitely could NOT use the normal brush. It is, in my opinion, worth the money.

If you can get a facial, even a mini-facial…do it. In my opinion, its worth the money. Estheticians love to answer questions, usually have a wealth of knowledge under their belt, and look at your skin as part of a larger picture. If a client has a lot of acne going on, I will be asking them TONS of questions, ranging from “what are you using on your skin”, “have you been allergy tested (studies show that milk can for some people exacerbate acne breakouts as well as gluten)”, “what birth control/hormonal replacements do you use” etc etc. They may see things under the mag lamp you never even knew existed! Plus facials by and large feel AWESOME. If you are having acne issues, just make sure the facial include high frequency, ESPECIALLY if there are going to be extractions. I love that machine so much and use it EVERY TIME a pimple pops up or after I wax…its a miracle worker!

Feel free to drop me a line with your skincare questions!

<3, G.